Two-handed axes:

The No-throw method can be used for two-handed throws the same as one-handed.

Step 1:
Use both hands to hold the ax at the end of the handle with the same grip you would use on a baseball bat. For this, you will want your body centered on the target with the ax directly in front of you.

Step 2:
Bring the ax back straight so the ax head ends up lower than your hands (beware of double-bit or spiked axes that you don’t bring it back and stab yourself in the back!)

Step 3:
Release the ax with both hands simultaneously. Most two-handed axes have one rotation at 20 feet.

Underhand ax throwing:

Sidearm-throwing:

Sidearm-throwing, in my opinion, is any throw where the swing of the arm and weapon is anything other than a straight up and down motion that can be noticed while a marshal observes the thrower. If the weapon slips from the thrower’s hand half way through the arc it could fly into the thrower standing at the next target. This is why marshals clear the range, etc. before allowing sidearm throwing (ergo: get the marshal’s permission before attempting to throw sidearm.) One rotation for sidearm throwing (still using the tomahawk) is about 14 feet. The real difference in technique from a basic throw is the rotation of the shoulder. In a normal overhand throw, your arm is moving straight down, using gravity as a guide. In a sidearm throw, the plane of impact is now parallel to the ground. The way your arm has to rotate requires twice the practice to get consistent.  Because your arm is twisting around more keeping your wrist straight (the ax handle still wants to be 90 degrees to your forearm) is more difficult as well as consistent release. You’ll find your experience from basic throwing is going to be your best guide to successful sidearm throwing.

Step 1:

Keep your wrist straight and the ax handle parallel to the ground. Notice how your arm is twisted around a lot more than an overhand throw. Also, notice what would happen if the ax were to slip while the picture was being taken.

Step 2:
Throw the ax with your arm straight, and release by just opening your hand (no wrist snapping.) Release the ax when your hand is out in front of you and the same height above the ground as your belt buckle (yeah, I know: my back isn’t perfectly straight.)

When the axes stick the handles will be pointing up.

Elbow bent:

Step 1:
With the second method hold the ax so the end of the handle is near your thumb (upside down from a regular throw.) The ax head will be on the same side of your hand as your pinkie finger. The elbow needs to stay bent for the entire throw, with the forearm parallel to the ground at release.

Step 2:
Keep your arm straight when winding up but the elbow needs to stay bent for the rest of the throw, with the forearm parallel to the ground at release.

This picture shows the two grips together. The elbow bent is on top, wrist locked straight is below.

Sidearm-throwing:

Sidearm-throwing, in my opinion, is any throw where the swing of the arm and weapon is anything other than a straight up and down motion that can be noticed while a marshal observes the thrower. If the weapon slips from the throwers hand half way through the arc it could fly into the thrower standing at the next target. This is why marshals clear the range, etc. before allowing sidearm throwing (ergo: get the marshal’s permission before attempting to throw sidearm.) One rotation for sidearm throwing (still using the tomahawk) is about 14 feet. The real difference in technique from a basic throw is the rotation of the shoulder. In a normal overhand throw, your arm is moving straight down, using gravity as a guide. In a sidearm throw, the plane of impact is now parallel to the ground. The way your arm has to rotate requires twice the practice to get consistent.  Because your arm is twisting around more keeping your wrist straight (the ax handle still wants to be 90 degrees to your forearm) is more difficult as well as consistent release. You’ll find your experience from basic throwing is going to be your best guide to successful sidearm throwing.

Step 1:
Keep your wrist straight and the ax handle parallel to the ground. Notice how your arm is twisted around a lot more than an overhand throw. Also, notice what would happen if the ax were to slip while the picture was being taken.

Step 2:
Release the ax when the handle is parallel to the face of the target.

Here’s how the ax will stick with a sidearm throw:

Here’s how the axes will stick with left and right-hand throws:

Knife throwing by the blade:

Note there is added risk with throwing a knife by the blade as your fingers are near a cutting edge that will be in motion. Single edged knives should be used since the blade can be held without a cutting edge against your hand. Regardless of the style of knife, do not use a sharp knife to throw this way.

The easiest way to throw by the blade (on the thrower but not on the knife) is to hold the blade tip between thumb and first finger so the flat of the blade is parallel to the ground, the edge facing away from your palm. The blade tip should not be past the base of your thumb. Be certain your index finger doesn’t curl around the sharp edge with this grip. Hold the wrist out straight, and use the same technique for knife throwing shown in Basic Throwing (there should be a straight line through the entire length of the knife to your elbow.) The knife will flip and stick with the flat still parallel to the ground. This is easiest to start with but will bend or break the tips of knives quickly. Any weapon thrown tries to continue rotating even after being stuck in the target (inertia, for those interested in physics.) With other throws the edge is inline with the rotation, so inertia pushes the edge of the knife into the wood (like cutting a slice of cake.) With this particular grip, the flat of the blade is in line with the rotation. When the tip sticks into the target it’s the same as if you were using the knife like a crowbar to pry 2 boards apart.

An easier way (on the knife this time) is to hold the knife so the blade tip is well past the base of your thumb, and hold the knife so the edge is toward the ground upon release. The edge will be in line with the rotation of the knife so damage is minimal. A side effect of this grip is that depending on how far the blade tip goes past the base of your thumb, you can easily vary the distance of one rotation. For the beginner, this is a disaster, but to a more experienced thrower, it opens new doors. Often at competitions, the given distances are varied for a greater challenge. Adjusting your grip along the blade to vary rotation distance is your key to sticking the knife. This requires a degree of familiarity with yourself and the knife not often seen in SCA competition.

Knife throwing without rotation:

There are some techniques that allow the knife to be thrown with only 1/2 rotation before the knife stabilizes in flight and stays point forward for the rest of the throw regardless of distance. This is being researched and will be posted here when solid results have been made.

Two-handed axes:

The No-throw method can be used for two-handed throws the same as one-handed.

Step 1:
Use both hands to hold the ax at the end of the handle with the same grip you would use on a baseball bat. For this, you will want your body centered on the target with the ax directly in front of you.

Step 2:
Bring the ax back straight so the ax head ends up lower than your hands (beware of double-bit or spiked axes that you don’t bring it back and stab yourself in the back!)

Step 3:
Release the ax with both hands simultaneously. Most two-handed axes have one rotation at 20 feet.

Underhand ax throwing:

Sidearm-throwing:

Sidearm-throwing, in my opinion, is any throw where the swing of the arm and weapon is anything other than a straight up and down motion that can be noticed while a marshal observes the thrower. If the weapon slips from the thrower’s hand half way through the arc it could fly into the thrower standing at the next target. This is why marshals clear the range, etc. before allowing sidearm throwing (ergo: get the marshal’s permission before attempting to throw sidearm.) One rotation for sidearm throwing (still using the tomahawk) is about 14 feet. The real difference in technique from a basic throw is the rotation of the shoulder. In a normal overhand throw, your arm is moving straight down, using gravity as a guide. In a sidearm throw, the plane of impact is now parallel to the ground. The way your arm has to rotate requires twice the practice to get consistent.  Because your arm is twisting around more keeping your wrist straight (the ax handle still wants to be 90 degrees to your forearm) is more difficult as well as consistent release. You’ll find your experience from basic throwing is going to be your best guide to successful sidearm throwing.

Step 1:

Keep your wrist straight and the ax handle parallel to the ground. Notice how your arm is twisted around a lot more than an overhand throw. Also, notice what would happen if the ax were to slip while the picture was being taken.

Step 2:
Throw the ax with your arm straight, and release by just opening your hand (no wrist snapping.) Release the ax when your hand is out in front of you and the same height above the ground as your belt buckle (yeah, I know: my back isn’t perfectly straight.)

When the axes stick the handles will be pointing up.

Elbow bent:

Step 1:
With the second method hold the ax so the end of the handle is near your thumb (upside down from a regular throw.) The ax head will be on the same side of your hand as your pinkie finger. The elbow needs to stay bent for the entire throw, with the forearm parallel to the ground at release.

Step 2:
Keep your arm straight when winding up but the elbow needs to stay bent for the rest of the throw, with the forearm parallel to the ground at release.

This picture shows the two grips together. The elbow bent is on top, wrist locked straight is below.

Sidearm-throwing:

Sidearm-throwing, in my opinion, is any throw where the swing of the arm and weapon is anything other than a straight up and down motion that can be noticed while a marshal observes the thrower. If the weapon slips from the throwers hand half way through the arc it could fly into the thrower standing at the next target. This is why marshals clear the range, etc. before allowing sidearm throwing (ergo: get the marshal’s permission before attempting to throw sidearm.) One rotation for sidearm throwing (still using the tomahawk) is about 14 feet. The real difference in technique from a basic throw is the rotation of the shoulder. In a normal overhand throw, your arm is moving straight down, using gravity as a guide. In a sidearm throw, the plane of impact is now parallel to the ground. The way your arm has to rotate requires twice the practice to get consistent.  Because your arm is twisting around more keeping your wrist straight (the ax handle still wants to be 90 degrees to your forearm) is more difficult as well as consistent release. You’ll find your experience from basic throwing is going to be your best guide to successful sidearm throwing.

Step 1:
Keep your wrist straight and the ax handle parallel to the ground. Notice how your arm is twisted around a lot more than an overhand throw. Also, notice what would happen if the ax were to slip while the picture was being taken.

Step 2:
Release the ax when the handle is parallel to the face of the target.

Here’s how the ax will stick with a sidearm throw:

Here’s how the axes will stick with left and right-hand throws:

Knife throwing by the blade:

Note there is added risk with throwing a knife by the blade as your fingers are near a cutting edge that will be in motion. Single edged knives should be used since the blade can be held without a cutting edge against your hand. Regardless of the style of knife, do not use a sharp knife to throw this way.

The easiest way to throw by the blade (on the thrower but not on the knife) is to hold the blade tip between thumb and first finger so the flat of the blade is parallel to the ground, the edge facing away from your palm. The blade tip should not be past the base of your thumb. Be certain your index finger doesn’t curl around the sharp edge with this grip. Hold the wrist out straight, and use the same technique for knife throwing shown in Basic Throwing (there should be a straight line through the entire length of the knife to your elbow.) The knife will flip and stick with the flat still parallel to the ground. This is easiest to start with but will bend or break the tips of knives quickly. Any weapon thrown tries to continue rotating even after being stuck in the target (inertia, for those interested in physics.) With other throws the edge is inline with the rotation, so inertia pushes the edge of the knife into the wood (like cutting a slice of cake.) With this particular grip, the flat of the blade is in line with the rotation. When the tip sticks into the target it’s the same as if you were using the knife like a crowbar to pry 2 boards apart.

An easier way (on the knife this time) is to hold the knife so the blade tip is well past the base of your thumb, and hold the knife so the edge is toward the ground upon release. The edge will be in line with the rotation of the knife so damage is minimal. A side effect of this grip is that depending on how far the blade tip goes past the base of your thumb, you can easily vary the distance of one rotation. For the beginner, this is a disaster, but to a more experienced thrower, it opens new doors. Often at competitions, the given distances are varied for a greater challenge. Adjusting your grip along the blade to vary rotation distance is your key to sticking the knife. This requires a degree of familiarity with yourself and the knife not often seen in SCA competition.

Knife throwing without rotation:

There are some techniques that allow the knife to be thrown with only 1/2 rotation before the knife stabilizes in flight and stays point forward for the rest of the throw regardless of distance. This is being researched and will be posted here when solid results have been made.

Two-handed axes:

The No-throw method can be used for two-handed throws the same as one-handed.

Step 1:
Use both hands to hold the ax at the end of the handle with the same grip you would use on a baseball bat. For this, you will want your body centered on the target with the ax directly in front of you.

Step 2:
Bring the ax back straight so the ax head ends up lower than your hands (beware of double-bit or spiked axes that you don’t bring it back and stab yourself in the back!)

Step 3:
Release the ax with both hands simultaneously. Most two-handed axes have one rotation at 20 feet.

Underhand ax throwing:

Sidearm-throwing:

Sidearm-throwing, in my opinion, is any throw where the swing of the arm and weapon is anything other than a straight up and down motion that can be noticed while a marshal observes the thrower. If the weapon slips from the thrower’s hand half way through the arc it could fly into the thrower standing at the next target. This is why marshals clear the range, etc. before allowing sidearm throwing (ergo: get the marshal’s permission before attempting to throw sidearm.) One rotation for sidearm throwing (still using the tomahawk) is about 14 feet. The real difference in technique from a basic throw is the rotation of the shoulder. In a normal overhand throw, your arm is moving straight down, using gravity as a guide. In a sidearm throw, the plane of impact is now parallel to the ground. The way your arm has to rotate requires twice the practice to get consistent.  Because your arm is twisting around more keeping your wrist straight (the ax handle still wants to be 90 degrees to your forearm) is more difficult as well as consistent release. You’ll find your experience from basic throwing is going to be your best guide to successful sidearm throwing.

Step 1:

Keep your wrist straight and the ax handle parallel to the ground. Notice how your arm is twisted around a lot more than an overhand throw. Also, notice what would happen if the ax were to slip while the picture was being taken.

Step 2:
Throw the ax with your arm straight, and release by just opening your hand (no wrist snapping.) Release the ax when your hand is out in front of you and the same height above the ground as your belt buckle (yeah, I know: my back isn’t perfectly straight.)

When the axes stick the handles will be pointing up.

Elbow bent:

Step 1:
With the second method hold the ax so the end of the handle is near your thumb (upside down from a regular throw.) The ax head will be on the same side of your hand as your pinkie finger. The elbow needs to stay bent for the entire throw, with the forearm parallel to the ground at release.

Step 2:
Keep your arm straight when winding up but the elbow needs to stay bent for the rest of the throw, with the forearm parallel to the ground at release.

This picture shows the two grips together. The elbow bent is on top, wrist locked straight is below.

Sidearm-throwing:

Sidearm-throwing, in my opinion, is any throw where the swing of the arm and weapon is anything other than a straight up and down motion that can be noticed while a marshal observes the thrower. If the weapon slips from the throwers hand half way through the arc it could fly into the thrower standing at the next target. This is why marshals clear the range, etc. before allowing sidearm throwing (ergo: get the marshal’s permission before attempting to throw sidearm.) One rotation for sidearm throwing (still using the tomahawk) is about 14 feet. The real difference in technique from a basic throw is the rotation of the shoulder. In a normal overhand throw, your arm is moving straight down, using gravity as a guide. In a sidearm throw, the plane of impact is now parallel to the ground. The way your arm has to rotate requires twice the practice to get consistent.  Because your arm is twisting around more keeping your wrist straight (the ax handle still wants to be 90 degrees to your forearm) is more difficult as well as consistent release. You’ll find your experience from basic throwing is going to be your best guide to successful sidearm throwing.

Step 1:
Keep your wrist straight and the ax handle parallel to the ground. Notice how your arm is twisted around a lot more than an overhand throw. Also, notice what would happen if the ax were to slip while the picture was being taken.

Step 2:
Release the ax when the handle is parallel to the face of the target.

Here’s how the ax will stick with a sidearm throw:

Here’s how the axes will stick with left and right-hand throws:

Knife throwing by the blade:

Note there is added risk with throwing a knife by the blade as your fingers are near a cutting edge that will be in motion. Single edged knives should be used since the blade can be held without a cutting edge against your hand. Regardless of the style of knife, do not use a sharp knife to throw this way.

The easiest way to throw by the blade (on the thrower but not on the knife) is to hold the blade tip between thumb and first finger so the flat of the blade is parallel to the ground, the edge facing away from your palm. The blade tip should not be past the base of your thumb. Be certain your index finger doesn’t curl around the sharp edge with this grip. Hold the wrist out straight, and use the same technique for knife throwing shown in Basic Throwing (there should be a straight line through the entire length of the knife to your elbow.) The knife will flip and stick with the flat still parallel to the ground. This is easiest to start with but will bend or break the tips of knives quickly. Any weapon thrown tries to continue rotating even after being stuck in the target (inertia, for those interested in physics.) With other throws the edge is inline with the rotation, so inertia pushes the edge of the knife into the wood (like cutting a slice of cake.) With this particular grip, the flat of the blade is in line with the rotation. When the tip sticks into the target it’s the same as if you were using the knife like a crowbar to pry 2 boards apart.

An easier way (on the knife this time) is to hold the knife so the blade tip is well past the base of your thumb, and hold the knife so the edge is toward the ground upon release. The edge will be in line with the rotation of the knife so damage is minimal. A side effect of this grip is that depending on how far the blade tip goes past the base of your thumb, you can easily vary the distance of one rotation. For the beginner, this is a disaster, but to a more experienced thrower, it opens new doors. Often at competitions, the given distances are varied for a greater challenge. Adjusting your grip along the blade to vary rotation distance is your key to sticking the knife. This requires a degree of familiarity with yourself and the knife not often seen in SCA competition.

Knife throwing without rotation:

There are some techniques that allow the knife to be thrown with only 1/2 rotation before the knife stabilizes in flight and stays point forward for the rest of the throw regardless of distance. This is being researched and will be posted here when solid results have been made.

While there is a dizzying array of weapons available that can be thrown, shown here are more common examples. Keep in mind that every manufacturer has unique dimensions that they use.  In the case of forged tomahawks, each is made by hand, one at a time. A single source for hawks in the East Kingdom carries half a dozen different french hawks, listing the different weights in ounces.  

In the East, we try like to keep an open mind and try to restrict weapons only for damage and safety (see the current rules section.)  

Photos below show common weapons available with dollar bills included for scale.

With the axes going left to right, starting at the top:

Standard tomahawk:

Likely the first weapon given by a marshal to an adult thrower, since it is often considered the easiest weapon to throw and make stick.  Most marshals have these axes available.  Standard tomahawks are readily available and reasonable beginning price range begins at about 20 dollars.  Approximate size: 18” length, 3 ½” blade length, 2lbs.

Small forged tomahawk/mousehawk:

It’s similar to the standard tomahawk but ⅔ to ¾ the size and weight.  This is a good weapon for children or smaller adults. Some smaller adults have a better experience with the mouse hawk to learn proper throwing technique.  Student may transition from the mousehawk to standard tomahawk within half an hour. 14″ overall length, 2″ blade length, 1 lbs.

French hawk:  

This is a very old style that is excellent for throwing.  The raised tip of the head allows the french hawk to stick over a greater range of rotation. French hawks have the broadest range of weight and size of any ax design, but in weight they’re generally between the standard and mouse hawks. 18″-20″ overall length, 3 1/2″ blade length.

Camping ax:

Although not period, they’re readily available in any hardware store and can be bought for as little as 5 dollars. The handles are made from wood or steel (head is permanently attached with steel handled axes.)

Handles:

A wooden tomahawk handle averages 5 dollars, and as a courtesy it’s asked that a thrower replaces handles that they break when borrowing axes.  

Throwing knives:

There is a wide variety of knives available.  Knives are harder to throw than axes, since they are made to only stick on their blade tip. Larger knives are generally easier (they throw like axes.) Knives eight inches from end to end are a minimum length that should be considered, but the heavier the better. Everyone when starting out wants to use tiny knives (must be a carry over from dart throwing.) Many knives made for throwing are made of one piece of steel with no additional handle material (wood or leather.)

Damaged handles and safety concerns:

Damaged handles can be hazardous to throwers.  Marshals need to pay special attention to the safety of handles.  Folding knives and knives that are irreplaceable should not be thrown on the range due to likelihood of damage.  

Spear:

In SCA thrown weapons spears aren’t as popular as axes and knives. Cost, space, and rotation can deter throwers. However, spears can be made cheaply from hardware store materials and they don’t have to be eight feet long. The spear at the top of the photos is a flat steel head on a wood mop handle. The handles of all the spears on the bottom of the page were made from rake handles or pool cues. The heads were made from large nails/spikes or an SKS bayonet (like the one pictured below on the far right next to the axes.)

Pictured below are some stranger weapons to be found on the range. Starting from the top going left to right:

Shakra: Thrown like a Frisbee (this means it’s a sidearm throw and needs to be cleared with the marshal.)

Pizza cutter: Throws like a knife.

Special Forces Shovel: The manufacturer claims this can be thrown like an ax as the edges can be sharpened. Despite the name, when asked, Special Forces have said this would not be their weapon of choice in an emergency.

Bolo machete/knife: Military styled heavy knife. This weapon doesn’t have a point, but will stick when thrown correctly.

Chinese sword: Few knives are heavier than the Chinese sword.

Viking/Norse ax: Essentially a different style of tomahawk.

Machete: Long rotation, lightweight. The blade is tempered like a spring, so if it doesn’t stick it could bounce much further than some weapons.  This knife may be more challenging on windy days.

Two-handed ax: Available in many sizes and styles.  The rotation is much larger, once in 22 feet.  Lighter targets can be destroyed by two-handed axes.  While thrilling and attention-getting, they are often considered advanced throwing axes.

 

Basic Throwing Technique

Before you begin, be sure to read and understand the Rules for Thrown Weapons. When entering a Thrown Weapons practice the Marshal will also ask you to read the Range Etiquette and Procedures before entering the range.   If you have any questions or concerns about the rules and/or procedures, please ask your friendly marshal.  Thrown Weapons is a lot of fun, but we are using sharp and pointy weapons, please play with care.  

Consistency is the most important throwing technique.  There are many factors involved in a good throw.  As a beginner, you will have to train your body to hold the weapon, throw it, and release it the same way each time and at the same distance in order to predict your results.  Beginners achieve a consistent throw quickly, the difficult part is consistent release. In its most basic form, the release is merely opening your hand with your wrist straight at the end of the swing to allow the weapon to clear. Some throwers flick their wrists when they release, claiming it adds extra momentum or snap to the throw. This may be true, but it’s hard to be consistent with every throw until you learn to control the snap. We teach without snapping because most people would get frustrated and give up before they learned the required control. We do not suggest this technique for beginners.

The only “must” with your stance is to face the target squarely. Where archers stand sideways to the target, throwers face the target straight on. After that, it’s mostly how you were taught or personal preference.

Below you’ll see some of the more common methods marshals use to teach a beginner using a “standard” tomahawk first, then other weapons. Read one method with axes all the way through first before skipping to the knife section. Also, be aware there are other ways than what you see here, but like everything else in life, there is no one way to do something correctly.

Phil’s No Throw Method:

This method teaches exactly which muscles to use and with how much force to throw an ax one rotation. When you go through the steps take note of your body positioning and how it feels. The first time you actually throw the ax everything will be the same except the ax will be released.

Step 1:

Approach the target with an ax in hand and rest the blade on the face of the target.  Hold the ax so the end of the handle is flush with the bottom of your fist.