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Advanced Throwing Technique

Advanced Throwing Technique

Advanced Throwing Technique

Welcome to advanced throwing technique.  One should begin studying advanced technique after they have  the ability to stick axes and knives in a target round at one rotation while maintaining your plane of impact.

Advanced techniques here include: Multiple rotations, two-handed, underhand, and side throwing.

Multiple rotations:

Once you can consistently stick a tomahawk (or whatever weapon you started with) at one rotation, the next thing you’ll do is throw with two rotations. Still using a standard tomahawk, 18 to 20 feet is the correct distance for two rotation. The only difference is the amount of strength needed since you’re throwing the ax further. The same thing applies for three rotations, the maximum you’re likely to throw at a range (25 to 28 feet.) Multiple rotations are possible with any weapon that normally rotates when thrown. What must be remembered is that one rotation at twelve feet doesn’t mean two rotations is twenty-four feet. A good starting point is to add 50% of your one rotation distance for every additional rotation (i.e.: one rotation at 12 feet, two rotations at 18, three rotations at 24.) If you don’t normally step while throwing  you may find a step helps add inertia for longer distances.

Two-handed axes:

The No-throw method can be used for two-handed throws the same as one-handed.

Step 1:
Use both hands to hold the ax at the end of the handle with the same grip you would use on a baseball bat. For this, you will want your body centered on the target with the ax directly in front of you.

2 hand 19

Step 2:
Bring the ax back straight so the ax head ends up lower than your hands (beware of double-bit or spiked axes that you don’t bring it back and stab yourself in the back!)

2 hand 20

Step 3:
Release the ax with both hands simultaneously. Most two-handed axes have one rotation at 20 feet.

2 hand 21

Underhand ax throwing:

Sidearm-throwing:

Sidearm-throwing, in my opinion, is any throw where the swing of the arm and weapon is anything other than a straight up and down motion that can be noticed while a marshal observes the thrower. If the weapon slips from the thrower’s hand half way through the arc it could fly into the thrower standing at the next target. This is why marshals clear the range, etc. before allowing sidearm throwing (ergo: get the marshal’s permission before attempting to throw sidearm.) One rotation for sidearm throwing (still using the tomahawk) is about 14 feet. The real difference in technique from a basic throw is the rotation of the shoulder. In a normal overhand throw, your arm is moving straight down, using gravity as a guide. In a sidearm throw, the plane of impact is now parallel to the ground. The way your arm has to rotate requires twice the practice to get consistent.  Because your arm is twisting around more keeping your wrist straight (the ax handle still wants to be 90 degrees to your forearm) is more difficult as well as consistent release. You’ll find your experience from basic throwing is going to be your best guide to successful sidearm throwing.

Step 1:

Keep your wrist straight and the ax handle parallel to the ground. Notice how your arm is twisted around a lot more than an overhand throw. Also, notice what would happen if the ax were to slip while the picture was being taken.

underhand wrist 1

Step 2:
Throw the ax with your arm straight, and release by just opening your hand (no wrist snapping.) Release the ax when your hand is out in front of you and the same height above the ground as your belt buckle (yeah, I know: my back isn’t perfectly straight.)

underhand wrist 2

When the axes stick the handles will be pointing up.

underhand wrist 3

Elbow bent:

Step 1:
With the second method hold the ax so the end of the handle is near your thumb (upside down from a regular throw.) The ax head will be on the same side of your hand as your pinkie finger. The elbow needs to stay bent for the entire throw, with the forearm parallel to the ground at release.

underhand elbow 1

Step 2:
Keep your arm straight when winding up but the elbow needs to stay bent for the rest of the throw, with the forearm parallel to the ground at release.

underhand elbow 2

This picture shows the two grips together. The elbow bent is on top, wrist locked straight is below.

underhandgrip.JPG

Sidearm-throwing:

Sidearm-throwing, in my opinion, is any throw where the swing of the arm and weapon is anything other than a straight up and down motion that can be noticed while a marshal observes the thrower. If the weapon slips from the throwers hand half way through the arc it could fly into the thrower standing at the next target. This is why marshals clear the range, etc. before allowing sidearm throwing (ergo: get the marshal’s permission before attempting to throw sidearm.) One rotation for sidearm throwing (still using the tomahawk) is about 14 feet. The real difference in technique from a basic throw is the rotation of the shoulder. In a normal overhand throw, your arm is moving straight down, using gravity as a guide. In a sidearm throw, the plane of impact is now parallel to the ground. The way your arm has to rotate requires twice the practice to get consistent.  Because your arm is twisting around more keeping your wrist straight (the ax handle still wants to be 90 degrees to your forearm) is more difficult as well as consistent release. You’ll find your experience from basic throwing is going to be your best guide to successful sidearm throwing.

Step 1:
Keep your wrist straight and the ax handle parallel to the ground. Notice how your arm is twisted around a lot more than an overhand throw. Also, notice what would happen if the ax were to slip while the picture was being taken.

side 1

Step 2:
Release the ax when the handle is parallel to the face of the target.

side 2

Here’s how the ax will stick with a sidearm throw:

side 3

Here’s how the axes will stick with left and right-hand throws:

side 4

Knife throwing by the blade:

Note there is added risk with throwing a knife by the blade as your fingers are near a cutting edge that will be in motion. Single edged knives should be used since the blade can be held without a cutting edge against your hand. Regardless of the style of knife, do not use a sharp knife to throw this way.

The easiest way to throw by the blade (on the thrower but not on the knife) is to hold the blade tip between thumb and first finger so the flat of the blade is parallel to the ground, the edge facing away from your palm. The blade tip should not be past the base of your thumb. Be certain your index finger doesn’t curl around the sharp edge with this grip. Hold the wrist out straight, and use the same technique for knife throwing shown in Basic Throwing (there should be a straight line through the entire length of the knife to your elbow.) The knife will flip and stick with the flat still parallel to the ground. This is easiest to start with but will bend or break the tips of knives quickly. Any weapon thrown tries to continue rotating even after being stuck in the target (inertia, for those interested in physics.) With other throws the edge is inline with the rotation, so inertia pushes the edge of the knife into the wood (like cutting a slice of cake.) With this particular grip, the flat of the blade is in line with the rotation. When the tip sticks into the target it’s the same as if you were using the knife like a crowbar to pry 2 boards apart.

An easier way (on the knife this time) is to hold the knife so the blade tip is well past the base of your thumb, and hold the knife so the edge is toward the ground upon release. The edge will be in line with the rotation of the knife so damage is minimal. A side effect of this grip is that depending on how far the blade tip goes past the base of your thumb, you can easily vary the distance of one rotation. For the beginner, this is a disaster, but to a more experienced thrower, it opens new doors. Often at competitions, the given distances are varied for a greater challenge. Adjusting your grip along the blade to vary rotation distance is your key to sticking the knife. This requires a degree of familiarity with yourself and the knife not often seen in SCA competition.

knifgripblade1.JPG

Knife throwing without rotation:

There are some techniques that allow the knife to be thrown with only 1/2 rotation before the knife stabilizes in flight and stays point forward for the rest of the throw regardless of distance. This is being researched and will be posted here when solid results have been made.

1 1/2 1

Advanced Throwing Technique

Advanced Throwing Technique

Welcome to advanced throwing technique.  One should begin studying advanced technique after they have  the ability to stick axes and knives in a target round at one rotation while maintaining your plane of impact.

Advanced techniques here include: Multiple rotations, two-handed, underhand, and side throwing.

Multiple rotations:

Once you can consistently stick a tomahawk (or whatever weapon you started with) at one rotation, the next thing you’ll do is throw with two rotations. Still using a standard tomahawk, 18 to 20 feet is the correct distance for two rotation. The only difference is the amount of strength needed since you’re throwing the ax further. The same thing applies for three rotations, the maximum you’re likely to throw at a range (25 to 28 feet.) Multiple rotations are possible with any weapon that normally rotates when thrown. What must be remembered is that one rotation at twelve feet doesn’t mean two rotations is twenty-four feet. A good starting point is to add 50% of your one rotation distance for every additional rotation (i.e.: one rotation at 12 feet, two rotations at 18, three rotations at 24.) If you don’t normally step while throwing  you may find a step helps add inertia for longer distances.

Two-handed axes:

The No-throw method can be used for two-handed throws the same as one-handed.

Step 1:
Use both hands to hold the ax at the end of the handle with the same grip you would use on a baseball bat. For this, you will want your body centered on the target with the ax directly in front of you.

2 hand 19

Step 2:
Bring the ax back straight so the ax head ends up lower than your hands (beware of double-bit or spiked axes that you don’t bring it back and stab yourself in the back!)

2 hand 20

Step 3:
Release the ax with both hands simultaneously. Most two-handed axes have one rotation at 20 feet.

2 hand 21

Underhand ax throwing:

Sidearm-throwing:

Sidearm-throwing, in my opinion, is any throw where the swing of the arm and weapon is anything other than a straight up and down motion that can be noticed while a marshal observes the thrower. If the weapon slips from the thrower’s hand half way through the arc it could fly into the thrower standing at the next target. This is why marshals clear the range, etc. before allowing sidearm throwing (ergo: get the marshal’s permission before attempting to throw sidearm.) One rotation for sidearm throwing (still using the tomahawk) is about 14 feet. The real difference in technique from a basic throw is the rotation of the shoulder. In a normal overhand throw, your arm is moving straight down, using gravity as a guide. In a sidearm throw, the plane of impact is now parallel to the ground. The way your arm has to rotate requires twice the practice to get consistent.  Because your arm is twisting around more keeping your wrist straight (the ax handle still wants to be 90 degrees to your forearm) is more difficult as well as consistent release. You’ll find your experience from basic throwing is going to be your best guide to successful sidearm throwing.

Step 1:

Keep your wrist straight and the ax handle parallel to the ground. Notice how your arm is twisted around a lot more than an overhand throw. Also, notice what would happen if the ax were to slip while the picture was being taken.

underhand wrist 1

Step 2:
Throw the ax with your arm straight, and release by just opening your hand (no wrist snapping.) Release the ax when your hand is out in front of you and the same height above the ground as your belt buckle (yeah, I know: my back isn’t perfectly straight.)

underhand wrist 2

When the axes stick the handles will be pointing up.

underhand wrist 3

Elbow bent:

Step 1:
With the second method hold the ax so the end of the handle is near your thumb (upside down from a regular throw.) The ax head will be on the same side of your hand as your pinkie finger. The elbow needs to stay bent for the entire throw, with the forearm parallel to the ground at release.

underhand elbow 1

Step 2:
Keep your arm straight when winding up but the elbow needs to stay bent for the rest of the throw, with the forearm parallel to the ground at release.

underhand elbow 2

This picture shows the two grips together. The elbow bent is on top, wrist locked straight is below.

underhandgrip.JPG

Sidearm-throwing:

Sidearm-throwing, in my opinion, is any throw where the swing of the arm and weapon is anything other than a straight up and down motion that can be noticed while a marshal observes the thrower. If the weapon slips from the throwers hand half way through the arc it could fly into the thrower standing at the next target. This is why marshals clear the range, etc. before allowing sidearm throwing (ergo: get the marshal’s permission before attempting to throw sidearm.) One rotation for sidearm throwing (still using the tomahawk) is about 14 feet. The real difference in technique from a basic throw is the rotation of the shoulder. In a normal overhand throw, your arm is moving straight down, using gravity as a guide. In a sidearm throw, the plane of impact is now parallel to the ground. The way your arm has to rotate requires twice the practice to get consistent.  Because your arm is twisting around more keeping your wrist straight (the ax handle still wants to be 90 degrees to your forearm) is more difficult as well as consistent release. You’ll find your experience from basic throwing is going to be your best guide to successful sidearm throwing.

Step 1:
Keep your wrist straight and the ax handle parallel to the ground. Notice how your arm is twisted around a lot more than an overhand throw. Also, notice what would happen if the ax were to slip while the picture was being taken.

side 1

Step 2:
Release the ax when the handle is parallel to the face of the target.

side 2

Here’s how the ax will stick with a sidearm throw:

side 3

Here’s how the axes will stick with left and right-hand throws:

side 4

Knife throwing by the blade:

Note there is added risk with throwing a knife by the blade as your fingers are near a cutting edge that will be in motion. Single edged knives should be used since the blade can be held without a cutting edge against your hand. Regardless of the style of knife, do not use a sharp knife to throw this way.

The easiest way to throw by the blade (on the thrower but not on the knife) is to hold the blade tip between thumb and first finger so the flat of the blade is parallel to the ground, the edge facing away from your palm. The blade tip should not be past the base of your thumb. Be certain your index finger doesn’t curl around the sharp edge with this grip. Hold the wrist out straight, and use the same technique for knife throwing shown in Basic Throwing (there should be a straight line through the entire length of the knife to your elbow.) The knife will flip and stick with the flat still parallel to the ground. This is easiest to start with but will bend or break the tips of knives quickly. Any weapon thrown tries to continue rotating even after being stuck in the target (inertia, for those interested in physics.) With other throws the edge is inline with the rotation, so inertia pushes the edge of the knife into the wood (like cutting a slice of cake.) With this particular grip, the flat of the blade is in line with the rotation. When the tip sticks into the target it’s the same as if you were using the knife like a crowbar to pry 2 boards apart.

An easier way (on the knife this time) is to hold the knife so the blade tip is well past the base of your thumb, and hold the knife so the edge is toward the ground upon release. The edge will be in line with the rotation of the knife so damage is minimal. A side effect of this grip is that depending on how far the blade tip goes past the base of your thumb, you can easily vary the distance of one rotation. For the beginner, this is a disaster, but to a more experienced thrower, it opens new doors. Often at competitions, the given distances are varied for a greater challenge. Adjusting your grip along the blade to vary rotation distance is your key to sticking the knife. This requires a degree of familiarity with yourself and the knife not often seen in SCA competition.

knifgripblade1.JPG

Knife throwing without rotation:

There are some techniques that allow the knife to be thrown with only 1/2 rotation before the knife stabilizes in flight and stays point forward for the rest of the throw regardless of distance. This is being researched and will be posted here when solid results have been made.

1 1/2 1

Advanced Throwing Technique

Advanced Throwing Technique

Welcome to advanced throwing technique.  One should begin studying advanced technique after they have  the ability to stick axes and knives in a target round at one rotation while maintaining your plane of impact.

Advanced techniques here include: Multiple rotations, two-handed, underhand, and side throwing.

Multiple rotations:

Once you can consistently stick a tomahawk (or whatever weapon you started with) at one rotation, the next thing you’ll do is throw with two rotations. Still using a standard tomahawk, 18 to 20 feet is the correct distance for two rotation. The only difference is the amount of strength needed since you’re throwing the ax further. The same thing applies for three rotations, the maximum you’re likely to throw at a range (25 to 28 feet.) Multiple rotations are possible with any weapon that normally rotates when thrown. What must be remembered is that one rotation at twelve feet doesn’t mean two rotations is twenty-four feet. A good starting point is to add 50% of your one rotation distance for every additional rotation (i.e.: one rotation at 12 feet, two rotations at 18, three rotations at 24.) If you don’t normally step while throwing  you may find a step helps add inertia for longer distances.

Two-handed axes:

The No-throw method can be used for two-handed throws the same as one-handed.

Step 1:
Use both hands to hold the ax at the end of the handle with the same grip you would use on a baseball bat. For this, you will want your body centered on the target with the ax directly in front of you.

2 hand 19

Step 2:
Bring the ax back straight so the ax head ends up lower than your hands (beware of double-bit or spiked axes that you don’t bring it back and stab yourself in the back!)

2 hand 20

Step 3:
Release the ax with both hands simultaneously. Most two-handed axes have one rotation at 20 feet.

2 hand 21

Underhand ax throwing:

Sidearm-throwing:

Sidearm-throwing, in my opinion, is any throw where the swing of the arm and weapon is anything other than a straight up and down motion that can be noticed while a marshal observes the thrower. If the weapon slips from the thrower’s hand half way through the arc it could fly into the thrower standing at the next target. This is why marshals clear the range, etc. before allowing sidearm throwing (ergo: get the marshal’s permission before attempting to throw sidearm.) One rotation for sidearm throwing (still using the tomahawk) is about 14 feet. The real difference in technique from a basic throw is the rotation of the shoulder. In a normal overhand throw, your arm is moving straight down, using gravity as a guide. In a sidearm throw, the plane of impact is now parallel to the ground. The way your arm has to rotate requires twice the practice to get consistent.  Because your arm is twisting around more keeping your wrist straight (the ax handle still wants to be 90 degrees to your forearm) is more difficult as well as consistent release. You’ll find your experience from basic throwing is going to be your best guide to successful sidearm throwing.

Step 1:

Keep your wrist straight and the ax handle parallel to the ground. Notice how your arm is twisted around a lot more than an overhand throw. Also, notice what would happen if the ax were to slip while the picture was being taken.

underhand wrist 1

Step 2:
Throw the ax with your arm straight, and release by just opening your hand (no wrist snapping.) Release the ax when your hand is out in front of you and the same height above the ground as your belt buckle (yeah, I know: my back isn’t perfectly straight.)

underhand wrist 2

When the axes stick the handles will be pointing up.

underhand wrist 3

Elbow bent:

Step 1:
With the second method hold the ax so the end of the handle is near your thumb (upside down from a regular throw.) The ax head will be on the same side of your hand as your pinkie finger. The elbow needs to stay bent for the entire throw, with the forearm parallel to the ground at release.

underhand elbow 1

Step 2:
Keep your arm straight when winding up but the elbow needs to stay bent for the rest of the throw, with the forearm parallel to the ground at release.

underhand elbow 2

This picture shows the two grips together. The elbow bent is on top, wrist locked straight is below.

underhandgrip.JPG

Sidearm-throwing:

Sidearm-throwing, in my opinion, is any throw where the swing of the arm and weapon is anything other than a straight up and down motion that can be noticed while a marshal observes the thrower. If the weapon slips from the throwers hand half way through the arc it could fly into the thrower standing at the next target. This is why marshals clear the range, etc. before allowing sidearm throwing (ergo: get the marshal’s permission before attempting to throw sidearm.) One rotation for sidearm throwing (still using the tomahawk) is about 14 feet. The real difference in technique from a basic throw is the rotation of the shoulder. In a normal overhand throw, your arm is moving straight down, using gravity as a guide. In a sidearm throw, the plane of impact is now parallel to the ground. The way your arm has to rotate requires twice the practice to get consistent.  Because your arm is twisting around more keeping your wrist straight (the ax handle still wants to be 90 degrees to your forearm) is more difficult as well as consistent release. You’ll find your experience from basic throwing is going to be your best guide to successful sidearm throwing.

Step 1:
Keep your wrist straight and the ax handle parallel to the ground. Notice how your arm is twisted around a lot more than an overhand throw. Also, notice what would happen if the ax were to slip while the picture was being taken.

side 1

Step 2:
Release the ax when the handle is parallel to the face of the target.

side 2

Here’s how the ax will stick with a sidearm throw:

side 3

Here’s how the axes will stick with left and right-hand throws:

side 4

Knife throwing by the blade:

Note there is added risk with throwing a knife by the blade as your fingers are near a cutting edge that will be in motion. Single edged knives should be used since the blade can be held without a cutting edge against your hand. Regardless of the style of knife, do not use a sharp knife to throw this way.

The easiest way to throw by the blade (on the thrower but not on the knife) is to hold the blade tip between thumb and first finger so the flat of the blade is parallel to the ground, the edge facing away from your palm. The blade tip should not be past the base of your thumb. Be certain your index finger doesn’t curl around the sharp edge with this grip. Hold the wrist out straight, and use the same technique for knife throwing shown in Basic Throwing (there should be a straight line through the entire length of the knife to your elbow.) The knife will flip and stick with the flat still parallel to the ground. This is easiest to start with but will bend or break the tips of knives quickly. Any weapon thrown tries to continue rotating even after being stuck in the target (inertia, for those interested in physics.) With other throws the edge is inline with the rotation, so inertia pushes the edge of the knife into the wood (like cutting a slice of cake.) With this particular grip, the flat of the blade is in line with the rotation. When the tip sticks into the target it’s the same as if you were using the knife like a crowbar to pry 2 boards apart.

An easier way (on the knife this time) is to hold the knife so the blade tip is well past the base of your thumb, and hold the knife so the edge is toward the ground upon release. The edge will be in line with the rotation of the knife so damage is minimal. A side effect of this grip is that depending on how far the blade tip goes past the base of your thumb, you can easily vary the distance of one rotation. For the beginner, this is a disaster, but to a more experienced thrower, it opens new doors. Often at competitions, the given distances are varied for a greater challenge. Adjusting your grip along the blade to vary rotation distance is your key to sticking the knife. This requires a degree of familiarity with yourself and the knife not often seen in SCA competition.

knifgripblade1.JPG

Knife throwing without rotation:

There are some techniques that allow the knife to be thrown with only 1/2 rotation before the knife stabilizes in flight and stays point forward for the rest of the throw regardless of distance. This is being researched and will be posted here when solid results have been made.

1 1/2 1

Types of Weapons

                  Types of Weapons

While there is a dizzying array of weapons available that can be thrown, shown here are more common examples. Keep in mind that every manufacturer has unique dimensions that they use.  In the case of forged tomahawks, each is made by hand, one at a time. A single source for hawks in the East Kingdom carries half a dozen different french hawks, listing the different weights in ounces.  

In the East, we try like to keep an open mind and try to restrict weapons only for damage and safety (see the current rules section.)  

Photos below show common weapons available with dollar bills included for scale.

weapons

With the axes going left to right, starting at the top:

Standard tomahawk:

Likely the first weapon given by a marshal to an adult thrower, since it is often considered the easiest weapon to throw and make stick.  Most marshals have these axes available.  Standard tomahawks are readily available and reasonable beginning price range begins at about 20 dollars.  Approximate size: 18” length, 3 ½” blade length, 2lbs.

Small forged tomahawk/mousehawk:

It’s similar to the standard tomahawk but ⅔ to ¾ the size and weight.  This is a good weapon for children or smaller adults. Some smaller adults have a better experience with the mouse hawk to learn proper throwing technique.  Student may transition from the mousehawk to standard tomahawk within half an hour. 14″ overall length, 2″ blade length, 1 lbs.

French hawk:  

This is a very old style that is excellent for throwing.  The raised tip of the head allows the french hawk to stick over a greater range of rotation. French hawks have the broadest range of weight and size of any ax design, but in weight they’re generally between the standard and mouse hawks. 18″-20″ overall length, 3 1/2″ blade length.

Camping ax:

Although not period, they’re readily available in any hardware store and can be bought for as little as 5 dollars. The handles are made from wood or steel (head is permanently attached with steel handled axes.)

Handles:

A wooden tomahawk handle averages 5 dollars, and as a courtesy it’s asked that a thrower replaces handles that they break when borrowing axes.  

Throwing knives:

There is a wide variety of knives available.  Knives are harder to throw than axes, since they are made to only stick on their blade tip. Larger knives are generally easier (they throw like axes.) Knives eight inches from end to end are a minimum length that should be considered, but the heavier the better. Everyone when starting out wants to use tiny knives (must be a carry over from dart throwing.) Many knives made for throwing are made of one piece of steel with no additional handle material (wood or leather.)

Damaged handles and safety concerns:

Damaged handles can be hazardous to throwers.  Marshals need to pay special attention to the safety of handles.  Folding knives and knives that are irreplaceable should not be thrown on the range due to likelihood of damage.  

Spear:

In SCA thrown weapons spears aren’t as popular as axes and knives. Cost, space, and rotation can deter throwers. However, spears can be made cheaply from hardware store materials and they don’t have to be eight feet long. The spear at the top of the photos is a flat steel head on a wood mop handle. The handles of all the spears on the bottom of the page were made from rake handles or pool cues. The heads were made from large nails/spikes or an SKS bayonet (like the one pictured below on the far right next to the axes.)

weapons2

Pictured below are some stranger weapons to be found on the range. Starting from the top going left to right:

weapons4

Shakra: Thrown like a Frisbee (this means it’s a sidearm throw and needs to be cleared with the marshal.)

Pizza cutter: Throws like a knife.

Special Forces Shovel: The manufacturer claims this can be thrown like an ax as the edges can be sharpened. Despite the name, when asked, Special Forces have said this would not be their weapon of choice in an emergency.

Bolo machete/knife: Military styled heavy knife. This weapon doesn’t have a point, but will stick when thrown correctly.

Chinese sword: Few knives are heavier than the Chinese sword.

Viking/Norse ax: Essentially a different style of tomahawk.

Machete: Long rotation, lightweight. The blade is tempered like a spring, so if it doesn’t stick it could bounce much further than some weapons.  This knife may be more challenging on windy days.

Two-handed ax: Available in many sizes and styles.  The rotation is much larger, once in 22 feet.  Lighter targets can be destroyed by two-handed axes.  While thrilling and attention-getting, they are often considered advanced throwing axes.

 

Basic Throwing Technique

Basic Throwing Technique

Before you begin, be sure to read and understand the Rules for Thrown Weapons. When entering a Thrown Weapons practice the Marshal will also ask you to read the Range Etiquette and Procedures before entering the range.   If you have any questions or concerns about the rules and/or procedures, please ask your friendly marshal.  Thrown Weapons is a lot of fun, but we are using sharp and pointy weapons, please play with care.  

Consistency is the most important throwing technique.  There are many factors involved in a good throw.  As a beginner, you will have to train your body to hold the weapon, throw it, and release it the same way each time and at the same distance in order to predict your results.  Beginners achieve a consistent throw quickly, the difficult part is consistent release. In its most basic form, the release is merely opening your hand with your wrist straight at the end of the swing to allow the weapon to clear. Some throwers flick their wrists when they release, claiming it adds extra momentum or snap to the throw. This may be true, but it’s hard to be consistent with every throw until you learn to control the snap. We teach without snapping because most people would get frustrated and give up before they learned the required control. We do not suggest this technique for beginners.

The only “must” with your stance is to face the target squarely. Where archers stand sideways to the target, throwers face the target straight on. After that, it’s mostly how you were taught or personal preference.

Below you’ll see some of the more common methods marshals use to teach a beginner using a “standard” tomahawk first, then other weapons. Read one method with axes all the way through first before skipping to the knife section. Also, be aware there are other ways than what you see here, but like everything else in life, there is no one way to do something correctly.

Phil’s No Throw Method:

This method teaches exactly which muscles to use and with how much force to throw an ax one rotation. When you go through the steps take note of your body positioning and how it feels. The first time you actually throw the ax everything will be the same except the ax will be released.

Step 1:

Approach the target with an ax in hand and rest the blade on the face of the target.  Hold the ax so the end of the handle is flush with the bottom of your fist.

no throw1

Step 2:
Adjust distance so your back is straight, the wrist is square (note how Phil’s forearm is 90 degrees from the ax handle) and proper reach is achieved while the blade still rests on the target face.

no throw2
Step 3:
Bring ax straight back over the shoulder (like your shoulder is the center of a spinning vertical wheel.)

no throw 4
Step 4:
Swing the ax down into the target face with enough force to stick it in the target. The motion is very similar to hammering a nail into a wall. The handle of the ax should be parallel to the target face and point straight to the ground (six o’clock.) Note the elevation of your arm, and how extended it is from your body (your elbow should be bent just enough so it’s not locked out straight.) When you are throwing from the proper distance this is where your arm has to be when you release the ax. In these pictures the target is too short for the release to be shown correctly here.
Worry the ax out of the target face and repeat steps 3 and 4 until you are confident you know how it feels to swing hard enough to stick the ax. With this method, your throwing arm should be the only part of your body in motion. Now step back from the target to the proper distance for one rotation (about twelve feet using a “standard” tomahawk) and assume the proper stance for throwing. The only difference now is you release the ax when your arm is in the correct position (hammering a nail into a wall.)

no throw 5

The Step Method:

Although fewer variables make the weapon easier to control some people prefer to step when throwing, it seems to put all the pieces together into a rhythm. Use the same technique as Phil’s No-Throw Method except a step is worked into the throw. Throwing at longer distances may require a step also, to gain momentum for the weapon (see Multiple Rotations in Advanced Throwing Technique.)

  1. Part your feet one in front of the other as if in mid-step when walking.
  2. Bring your arm back straight over your shoulder as shown in step 3 above.
  3. As you begin your throw take one normal step forward. Your step should be completed and your body should stop moving forward as you release the weapon.

Knives:

Most of what was shown above carries directly over into knife throwing, so much of it will not be repeated. If something is unclear, reviewing the ax discussions will help. As stated in Types of Weapons a beginner should use the heaviest knife they can handle. A heavier knife is more forgiving of an improper throw and is less likely to change its flight path on a windy day.

Why try knives?

  • Knives are less expensive than axes. For the price of two tomahawks, you might get six good knives. It’s a good idea to get more knives (4 to 6 knives instead of 2 axes) since as a beginner you can get more practice at one time when you’re at a crowded range.
  • Knives take up less space, and there’s no comparison for weight.
  • Knives can be carried on the belt through the day of an SCA event without the fatigue one may experience carrying axes on his or her belt.
  • Average skill with knives equates to above average skill with axes.
  • If an inexpensive throwing knife gets bent slightly, find a slight depression in the dirt around you. Lay the knife across the depression so the bend faces up (like an arched bridge instead of a bowl.) Step on the knife carefully but firmly, while wearing shoes, and keep checking until it’s straight (by eye is accurate enough.)

A popular throwing technique seen for knives is the thrower holding the knife by the blade.  This is an advanced technique.  Throwers should start by holding the handle.  Apply the same technique for knives as you did for ax throwing (with or without a step) and note that a lighter weapon will rotate faster than a heavy one so you’ll probably want to start on the ten foot line (the closest you can be to the target in the East Kingdom of the SCA.) There are two ways to hold your wrist when throwing by the handle. The first way is to keep your wrist straight as you did for axes (the knife does 1 1/4 rotations at the ten-foot line.) The second way is to lock your wrist out all the way so the blade is pointing at the target at release (the knife does 1 full rotation.) Keeping the wrist straight with knives can be difficult (you may either snap the wrist or not maintain the 90-degree angle) so locking the wrist out prevents this from happening.  See the photo below showing both grips.

handle grips


Spears:

Step 1:
Find the balance point on the spear while you rest it on your palm with your thumb away from the point.

spear 40
Step 2:
Hold it so as you throw the spear it should stay parallel to the ground, your wrist working as a pivot. At release you should only be holding the spear by your thumb and index finger.

spear 41
Step 3:
Follow through after release.

spear 42
Most spears need to thrown into soft targets made of straw bales, the example shown here is a rake handle with rebar used as a point. This spear is cheap to make, and certainly will last if made well.

spear 43
Javelin throwers from high school and college do this differently, but they are the “first timers” with the most experience we get at the range. By all means watch how they throw a spear, and never be afraid to ask them to show you how they do it and why.

Bad habits to avoid:

  1. Don’t push off with your feet (a spotter will see you standing on your toes when you release,) bring your shoulder forward (like a baseball pitcher,) or lean toward the target when throwing. All of these things adjust your distance from the target.
  2. Throwing the weapon “across” your body. The throwing arm should be centered on the target, not the thrower’s nose. If you center your body on the target and throw right handed, the weapon will travel to the target going slightly to your left. The most obvious sign is in the front legs of the target. As you face the target, right handers will replace the leg on the left hand side as the weapons keep chopping them up, but the right leg is fine. Left handed throwers will replace the right hand leg.

  Examples of improper throws:

bad throws

  1. Handle pointing down (knife) or handle bounces off target face (ax): too close to target.
  2. Handle pointing up  (knife) or back toward thrower (ax): too far away from target.
  3. Weapon arcs or lofts to the target and doesn’t stick when reaching the target: releasing too early. You’ll need a spotter to stand a safe distance away perpendicular to your throw (i.e.: weapon travels from left to right for them) to see this happening.
  4. Weapon nose dives straight into the ground in front of thrower: releasing too late (probably snapping the wrist, too.)
  5. Ax handles not pointing straight down (7 o’clock, 5 o’clock) or weapon tumbles through the air instead of rotating cleanly: not maintaining the plane of impact in your throw. You are either tucking the head of the ax behind your head like they do in the movies, or you need to tuck your elbow in when throwing. The elbow of your throwing arm should point to the target as you begin your throw, with the ax following that elbow as you near release.

Tips and tricks:

  1. Once you can consistently stick in the target, you can improve accuracy by making an aiming point on the target. Use two inch stick-on notes, a small piece of masking tape, or a blemish on the target face. The aiming point wants to be between the size of a quarter to 2″ square. Using pieces of tape or paper are best because you can easily move them around the target face, adding or deleting as needed. Using the aiming points on the target will not only develop accuracy but will improve your technique overall. You have to be good enough to stick weapons consistently before marking the target gives you any benefit.
  1. Note that several of the above improper throws resulted from the thrower being too close or too far from the target.  Axes need to make one full rotation from the thrower to the target.  In order to find your “sweet spot,” mark your footing so that you can find it again and adjust as you throw and retrieve your weapon. Scratching a mark into the ground with your heal or weapon handle is fine until 9 other throwers do it too. A marshal may have golf tees all different colors, just remember the color of your tee (and to give it back to the marshal when you leave.)  If there’s no golf tee available, try a twig or axe handle. If your throw shows that you are too close, back up the length of half of your shoe and try again. Keep adjusting until you find the right distance. Small changes make a significant difference.  

Another good example of a bad throw:

bad throw 2

This is a french hawk that stuck in the center of the target. “Excellent, job well done,” you may say. Then you realize it’s stuck by the handle. The wood handle, no less.

Now that you’ve seen some of the ways to throw, go find a marshal and play. After some practice (one afternoon of throwing could do it) you’ll notice you can tell at the actual moment of release whether or not the weapon will stick. When you can do that: congratulations! You’ve just reached a milestone in thrown weapons. You have accomplished the basic skills needed to do any other kind of throwing. Minimal practice will maintain that level of ability, but the next new thrower will also meet that in an afternoon. Hopefully we have you hooked on this now, and you’ll push your abilities on your own.

Types of Competitions

Bullseye

It’s tough to beat an old classic. Put in as many rings as you wish with varying score values (don’t put in so many to make scoring difficult.) Standard practice that eliminates a lot of arguments is if the weapon sticks in more than one ring, score to the higher value (see above about not putting in too many rings.) The “rings” can be square, too.

Viking Braid Toss

Use a small paper plate or unwanted CD as the center, and run yarn/twine/string out from the center of the target at 3 o’clock, 9 o’clock, and 12 o’clock. Cutting the braids gives “x” points, cutting the plate or disc subtracts points.

Dartboard/Pie Slices

Use masking tape and divide the face of the target up into equal (or unequal, you are the marshal) slices. Label what each slice is worth, cutting the tape subtracts “x” points. Note the tip or center of the slices doesn’t have to be symmetrical.

Multiple Circles

Put one circle in the center of the target, and one in each corner (an example of this target can be seen in the “bad throws” picture in Basic Throwing Technique). Assign score values. Make the circles or squares any pattern you wish.

Vertical Strip

Tack a 1/2″ strip of ribbon 12 inches long vertically to the face of the target, tape a centered unwanted over it. Cutting the ribbon scores, cutting the CD loses or subtracts points. A more heinous variation of this is to use a styrofoam mannequins head. As the weapon rotates the handle could well hit the mannequin before the blade cuts the ribbon.

These are not basic competitions. Save this for Baronial Champions and the like:

Combat Run

 This is as close to the “Hogan’s Alley” target shooting competitions that thrown weapons can get. The targets are set up in anything but a straight line, often the location where the thrower can stand is marked (it will be an odd distance from the target and probably at an angle.) Weapons the thrower has never used before are placed at the throwing station of each target. The thrower is timed through the course, beginning when the marshal starts the clock. Run to each station and use the weapons provided. Stop the clock when the course is completed. How the thrower’s time relates to the score, and their placement in the competition is up to the marshal. May be challenging for new throwers.

One note of caution: no weapons can be carried while a thrower is running.